The Long Awaited Move to UrbannaBefore I start the daily entries, I should probably say a word or two about my plan even though I’m pretty sure there will be changes – or better said it would be the exception if there were not any changes! The planned dates of the move are June 19-27. I need to be back in Waynesboro on the 28th for my father’s 92nd birthday celebration. The idea is to spend the first couple of days finishing up repairs and Spring commissioning and taking the boat out for a shakedown cruise before leaving Cole’s Point for good.
I’m taking this much time because I plan on visiting a few places around the mouth of the Potomac which will be less accessible once I move south. Those tentative sites are Solomon’s and Smith Islands in Maryland and Tangier Island and Reedville in Virginia.
I’m making most, possibly all, of this trip solo, so I’m very cautious about making sure the boat is fully ready before I leave. The reefing system will allow me to quickly adjust if the winds pick up. I’m also a bit cautious about taking on new engine work without some supervision. I might be willing to try some of this work if I were going out for the day and coming back tomorrow, but once I leave I’ll have to depend on new mechanics in new boat yards.
Friday, 6/19/9 – Cole’s Point
I arrived at the boat shortly after noon following a trip to West Marine in Richmond which turned into a trip to Pleasants Hardware to get the last nuts and bolts for the reefing system. My day was busy with hauling stuff aboard, inflating the dinghy, installing the last item on the reefing list that was within my ability level, and working of a few clean-up / inspection items from my Spring commissioning checklist.
My buddy Ron who’s my expert for items outside my ability level (a huge list of things!) was unavailable for most of the day because he was painting the swimming pool. He did come by late in the day and looked what needed to be done and said he’d try to get by on Saturday – although he conceded that the owner of the marina might be here and that would make him unavailable for another day.
I made a run to the grocery store for a few things and had dinner at the Tavern before calling it a day.
6/20/9 – Cole’s PointAn early check of the weather led me to believe that I might not make it out of here on Sunday as planned (I tend to get a bit nervous when they say 30 knot gusts!). Even if Ron was available, most of the work I needed to do was above deck and I didn’t like the idea of drilling holes in the deck with rain in the forecast.
We had two or three fairly strong, but very short, thunder storms, but I managed to get the last reefing block temporarily in place and the line rigged on the sail while I waited for Ron to check it out. He came by late in the day and decided that what I’d done was sufficient. That was good news except for the fact that the bolts I’d gotten from Pleasant’s were not usable, so I had to make a trip to Lowe’s in Tappahannock.
I was running so late that I missed dinner at the Driftwood and the Tavern had a cover, so I ended up at AC’s for a nice rockfish dinner.
Reefing system finally done!
6/21/9 – Cole’s Point
Sunday, my planned departure date, was taken up with all manner of tasks, from changing the fuel filter to stocking up on water and ice for tomorrow’s departure. Other tasks included installing the last of the reefing system (finally!), filling up with fuel, and attempting to change the oil filter. Even Ron was not able to gain enough purchase on that well-hidden device to get it loose, so we decided that it probably had few enough hours of service to continue doing its job for now. One last important task was to plot my course to Solomon’s Island, Maryland, which I hope to make tomorrow.
I spent 2½ days preparing to leave, fretting about the weather, and handling untold number or unexpected items, but as the day came to a close, I realized that I was ready to go. The weather looked a bit more accommodating and I think the Goober is ready for the trip!
A Richmond Times-Dispatch was not to be had on the point this morning, so I drove all the way to Jack’s This & That. As I approached the counter a young Black kid greeted me with, “Happy Father’s Day!” The paternal nature of the day had now quite caught up with me at that hour of the morning, but I was touched that a total stranger would wish me holiday greetings. Both Brian and Holland called later in the day with their wishes, making it a real fathers’ day for this old dad!
In the afternoon, I got a call from the Yoders from Harrisonburg (Shenandoah Sailors buddies). They were leaving their home port near Reedville and were on their way to St. Mary’s. I had told them earlier that I would be on the Potomac about the time they’d be sailing but had to beg off a trip to St.M’s since I’m already 2 days behind schedule on my move. We promised to look for each other on the river tomorrow.
I had lots of bitter-sweet thoughts as I contemplated my last night at Cole’s Point. This has been such a perfect place to start my “big boat sailing.” The people have been wonderful for a rookie. Ron again went out of his way to help me with my work today and even volunteered to come run my shuttle back to CP once I got to Urbanna. I bought him a fifth of Jamison’s yesterday to thank him for all the help he’s given me over the last three years.
I also realized how much I would miss the Tavern, AC’s, and particularly the Driftwood. I finished up in plenty of time to get to the D’wood for dinner. For a mom & pop restaurant in the middle of nowhere, they have to have the best broiled fish anywhere. I promised the owner that whenever I made it back to Cole’s Point, I’d be there!
I know I’ll love Urbanna with its amenities and shorter drive, but I also know that I’ll always have wonderful memories of Cole’s Point. I drove around after dinner and snapped a few pictures.
6/22/9 – Cole’s Point to Solomon’s, MarylandOne last look back.
Departure date at last! I left my slip at Cole’s Point at 8:15am only slightly behind schedule. The sail down the Potomac went very smoothly. It was mostly down wind and I probably averaged about 5 knots which would have me in Solomon’s easily.
However, as I made the turn to the first mark in the Bay I found that I was close hauled into a fierce (for me) wind, but I managed to stick that out to the first mark. I knew, though, that my next tack was going to be dead into the wind, so I got the sails down and turned the engine on and prepared for a long motor.
The headwind and the waves I was plowing through had my speed down to two knots when I was lucky, so I tried moving my course closer to the coast in hopes of tucking into the lea there. That plan worked enough to get my speed up to about three knots, but I soon realized that I’d never make Solomon’s by the marina office’s 6pm closing time, so I called them and got directions.
Sunset approaching Solomon's
The endless drone of the engine, which held up like a real champ, was just deathly boring. I figured that I motored for about 7-8 hours of my 12 hour day.
I got a quick shower and some advice on restaurants from some folks finishing up a late picnic at the marina, got some supper, and hit the sack, happy to have made it!
6/23/9 – Solomon’s
Docked next to a considerably bigger neighbor.
This was my sight-seeing day on Solomon’s and I had a great time. I visited several tourist destinations, the best of which were the Calvert Marine Museum and the restored Drum Point lighthouse.
Solomon’s is a great small watertown with a nice walkway along the Patuxent River, lots of restaurants and shops, and just loads of sailboats! You can't look in any direction and not see masts. I stayed at the Solomon’s Yachting Center, chosen because it seemed to be the first one I came to in the harbor, and although expensive compared to other marinas I’ve visited, well worth it. Pristine bathroom/shower facility, beautiful pool, and an easy bike ride to all that Solomon’s has to offer.
After visiting the museum and lighthouse, I tried a BBQ place that the tourist information center had recommended for lunch. It was nice and the people were very friendly, but it was definitely not NC BBQ! I took in all the sights of the town on my bike and spent the rest of the afternoon on cleaning and maintanence issues. That evening I tried the Captain's Table restaurant which I’d read about in Chesapeake Bay Magazine and had a great broiled fish dinner right at waterside at the Beacon marina.
6/24/9 – Solomon’s to ReedvilleUp at 6am this morning for the long haul to Reedville. I’ve decided, given my painfully slow trip up to Solomon’s that I should make getting to Urbanna my primary objective and save Smith & Tangier Islands for another trip. Reedville seemed the logical middle point, but even this trip was more like 13 hours!
When I made the turn south coming out of the Patuxent, I found myself dead down wind, so I decided to continue across the Bay in hopes of finding a course more into the wind. This worked fairly well although the winds were relatively mild. I discovered on my handy GPS that I could, given current wind conditions, plot a course all the way to the Great Wicomico and did so. That course held up pretty well, but the winds were even lighter which made for slow going.
One of the most exciting events of the entire trip occurred on this leg. I had become used to lots of aircraft on the trip to Solomon's because the Patuxant River Naval Air Station is nearby. As I crept along down wind toward Reedville, I heard a jet approaching from my right rear and turned to check it out. I was floored to see a fighter jet screaming toward me just above the river - I'd guess no more then 100 yards. Just as he pulled along my starboard side, he banked hard to the left and crossed right in front of me. If that weren't thrilling enough, he then went into a vertical climb and rolled over backwards! I'm standing in the cockpit pumping my fists and cheering him on covered in chill bumps! The whole thing probably didn't take 60 seconds, but what a rush!!!
Another highlight was passing the Smith Point lighthouse. I was scheduled to pass the Point No Point light on my way to Solomons, but had to veer toward the mainland to avoid the heavy headwind. This light more than made up for it.
Once in Reedville, I went through my usual routine of getting the boat secured, getting a fine cocktail, getting a shower, and getting some dinner. I ate at the Crazy Crab which is part of the Reedville marina and got up from the dinner table to go take this picture of the boat at sunset.
After dinner I walked down the street to Tommy’s, a place I’d heard good things about, for an after dinner drink and some amazing rice pudding for dessert.
6/25/9 – Reedville to UrbannaI took my time getting ready to go on this morning, figuring that I could always stop at a marina in Deltaville if it appeared that I’d not make Urbanna in a day. My course south from the Great Wicomico was again mostly down wind in light wind. The forecast had said 10-15 knot winds, but I couldn’t find them! I motored for a bit and noticed that the wind had changed to being ENE which made going a bit more interesting, although still relatively slow.
I had pretty much a straight shot at Windmill Point, so it was just a matter of holding the course and coaxing speed out of the sails. I decided that weak easterly wind was not going to push me to Urbanna all that quickly which would require a good bit of motoring, so I stuck with wind power to Windmill Point.
As expected, once I made that turn I was dead down wind again and creeping along, so I resigned myself to listening to the incessant groan of the engine. I was on schedule to make my new home port at a decent hour, so I settled in for the duration.
The highlight of the upriver trip was passing under the Rappahannock River bridge.
I made the channel into Urbanna about 7pm and as usual, showered, got some dinner, and crashed! This day had only been 10 hours, compared to 13 the day before, but two days that long, back to back, left me bone weary.
6/26/9 – Urbanna
So I found myself “home” with a day to kill. Gary was due to meet me Saturday about 10am for a short sail and to shuttle me back to Cole’s Point to pick up the truck. I spent the bulk of Friday morning in the local library catching up on this journal, email (most of which somehow did not make it into my inbox), working on my ToDo list for the next two days, and just enjoying the air conditioning!
I had lunch at the famous Marshall’s Drug Store counter: a great chicken salad sandwich with a slice of fresh local tomato and a hand-squeezed limeade. My lunch was complimented by a never-ending flow of locals showing off their new set of twins, catching up with friends that had been away at college, discussing upcoming weddings, and generally sharing their small-town life with me. Being a small-towner myself, it was an honor to be involved in the passing scene, even if only peripherally. What a wonderful spot!
I spend the afternoon washing the Goober’s topside and generally began to straighten up and pack for the trip home on Saturday. Dinner that night was at the restaurant at Dozier’s marina next door.
6/27/9 – Urbanna to Cole’s Point to the ‘Boro
Our new home at last!
Gary arrived right on schedule at 10am, and after touring the marina and talking to a few passing folks, including Lewis, my motor-boater next door neighbor, we decided to forego the sail and pack up to leave. Lewis had said that he’d heard reports of rather rough conditions out on the river, and I was eager to seek his guidance on tying up my boat in this new location. The decision proved to be a wise one, because it was pushing noon when we finally got Gary’s car packed up for the trip to Cole’s Point.
The shuttle to Cole’s Point was primarily to pick up my truck, but I was also eager to get my dock box disconnected and loaded up for the trip home. It was a simple process, but all of my tools were on the boat in Urbanna, and the office was swamped with a busier than usual Saturday - the annual Cole’s Point Poker Run to benefit the local fire department was underway. However, a total stranger happened to be in the office talking to Theresa and offered to let me use his tool kit, so Gary and I had it on the truck in short order. I’ve said it before, but there aren’t nicer folks anywhere than on the water!
In addition to Theresa I got a chance to say goodbye to Ron and Peter before Gary and I headed off the Tavern for one last lunch. We decided to beat the heat by eating indoors, but as we were leaving, the one outdoor table that was in the brisk north wind was available so we decided to stick around for another beer or two and a couple of cigars - assisted by our waitress, the lovely Alicia.
Final Thoughts
This was by far my most ambitious sailing trip. I was on the water for five days, stayed in three different ports, sailed long stretches, sailed over 100 miles total, and did it all solo. The north winds had me motoring on the leg up to Solomon’s and creeping along on the trip south, so the sailing was not particularly demanding. Nevertheless, I feel that I've come away from the trip a better, more experienced sailor, and actually pretty proud of myself!
